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Clawfoot Tub Refinishing DIY Step-by-Step Guide

  • Writer: Riley Thorne
    Riley Thorne
  • Sep 18
  • 3 min read

Refinishing a clawfoot tub can breathe new life into a vintage bathroom, save you the cost and hassle of replacing a heavy cast-iron or clawfoot unit, and add character to your space. If your tub has chipped enamel, rust, or just looks dated, refinishing it yourself is an appealing option. This is your complete DIY guide to getting the job done right.


Bathroom with white clawfoot tub, marble sink, yellow walls, framed art, and hexagonal tiled floor. Neatly stacked towels evoke elegance.

Refinishing a clawfoot tub can breathe new life into a vintage bathroom, save you the cost and hassle of replacing a heavy cast-iron or clawfoot unit, and add character to your space. If your tub has chipped enamel, rust, or just looks dated, refinishing it yourself is an appealing option. This is your complete DIY guide to getting the job done right.


Why Refinish a Clawfoot Tub?


  • Cost savings compared to replacing the tub entirely.

  • Preserve vintage or antique charm — clawfoot tubs often have craftsmanship and style that’s hard to replicate.

  • Sustainability — reusing what’s already there instead of sending it to a landfill.

  • Custom colors or finishes — you can update the look without losing character.


When to Refinish vs When to Replace


You should refinish if:

  • The tub has mostly superficial damage: chipped enamel, rust spots, worn finish.

  • It’s structurally sound — no large holes, cracks, or compromised cast-iron/fiberglass structure.

  • You’re okay with the effort: sanding, dealing with fumes, careful prep.


Consider replacement if:

  • The damage is extensive: large cracks, deep rust that has eaten through metal, structural issues.

  • The cost and effort of refinishing begin to approach that of a new tub.

  • You want a different shape or size entirely.


Tools & Materials You’ll Need

Category

Items

Cleaning & Prep

Sponges, scouring pads, steel wool, abrasive cleanser, rust remover.

Stripping / Removing Old Finish

Paint stripper, scraper, putty knife, wire brush, orbital sander, sanding discs.

Etching / Sanding

Wet/dry sandpaper (80–400 grit), etching powder if required.

Priming & Painting / Coating

Tub & Tile refinishing kit (epoxy or enamel), primer for exterior, paint suitable for cast iron, foam brushes, rollers, spray paint.

Safety Gear

Respirator, gloves, eye protection, drop cloths, painter’s tape.


Step-by-Step Refinishing Guide


  1. Remove Fixtures and Hardware

    Take out taps, drain covers, and overflow plates to keep them safe and ensure a clean finish.


  2. Clean Thoroughly

    Scrub away soap scum, mildew, and any old caulk. A clean surface is key to adhesion.


  3. Strip the Old Finish (If Necessary)

    If the finish is peeling or heavily damaged, use a stripper, scraper, or sanding tools to remove it.


  4. Repair Chips, Rust, and Imperfections

    Patch chips with filler, sand rust spots down, and apply rust-inhibiting primer on bare metal.


  5. Sand / Etch the Entire Surface

    Sand the whole tub to create a slightly rough surface so the new coating adheres properly.


  6. Mask and Protect the Surroundings

    Tape off walls, floors, and fixtures. Lay down drop cloths and ensure good ventilation.


  7. Prime if Required

    Some kits are self-priming, others need a separate primer. Apply evenly and let it dry fully.


  8. Apply the Refinish / Coating

    Mix and apply the coating in thin, even layers. Expect 2–3 coats for the best finish.


  9. Allow Proper Drying / Curing Time

    Let the tub cure for at least 24–72 hours before use, depending on the product.


  10. Reinstall Hardware and Caulk Joints

    Once fully cured, reinstall fixtures and re-caulk joints for a polished finish.


Tips & Best Practices


  • Always wear safety gear when sanding or applying coatings.

  • Work in warm, dry conditions with proper airflow.

  • Don’t rush between coats; follow recommended drying times.

  • Use fine sandpaper between coats to smooth imperfections.

  • Watch for signs of deep rust or lead paint in older tubs.


How Long Will It Last?


  • A well-done DIY refinishing job can last 5–10 years with proper care.

  • Avoid abrasive cleaners and harsh scrubbing to extend the life of the finish.


When DIY Might Not Be Enough


Hire a pro if:

  • The tub has severe structural damage.

  • Rust is widespread and deep.

  • You want a flawless, glossy finish requiring specialized equipment.


Final Thoughts


Refinishing a clawfoot tub yourself is absolutely doable if you prepare properly and take your time. With the right materials and careful steps, you’ll transform a worn tub into a show-stopping bathroom centerpiece — without losing its vintage charm.


FAQ


How much does it cost to refinish a clawfoot tub?

DIY refinishing usually costs between $100–$200 for materials, while professional reglazing can range from $500–$1,200.


How long does refinishing take?

The project itself can be done in a weekend, but you’ll need 24–72 hours of curing time before using the tub.


How long will the finish last?

A DIY refinishing job can last 5–10 years with proper cleaning and care. Professional finishes may last longer.


Can I change the color of my clawfoot tub?

Yes. With refinishing kits, you can choose white or even custom colors for the exterior.


Is refinishing safe to do myself?

Yes, if you wear proper protective gear, ventilate well, and follow directions carefully.

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