How To Fix A Leaky Outdoor Faucet (Spigot): Step-by-Step DIY

If you’re searching for how to fix a leaky outside water faucet, you’re in the right place. A dripping spigot (a.k.a. hose bib, sillcock, outdoor tap) wastes water, stains masonry, and can damage foundations and siding. The fixes are usually straightforward: replace a worn washer or packing, reseal a connection, or swap a failed cartridge/stem. This guide covers every common leak—from the spout, around the handle, at the hose connection, or from the vacuum breaker—so you can stop the drip fast. If you need to know how to fix a leaky bathtub faucet, check out our quick guide!

0) How to fix a leaky outdoor faucet

• Shut off the water feeding the outside faucet. Look for an interior shutoff valve on the same wall (often in a basement or utility room).

• Open the outdoor faucet to relieve pressure and drain any water.

• Protect the area with a towel/bucket; cover the spout so tiny screws don’t escape.

• Snap photos as you go for easy reassembly.

  
  

Basic tools: Phillips/flat screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, slip-joint pliers, needle-nose pliers, utility knife, PTFE (Teflon) tape, plumber’s (silicone) grease, white vinegar, rag.Possible parts: stem washer, packing or O-ring, vacuum breaker gasket, hose washer, replacement stem/cartridge, or a new sillcock (standard or frost-free).

1) Identify the leak

Before you decide how to fix a leaky outdoor faucet, figure out where it’s leaking:

A. Drip from the spout when the handle is off

• Classic worn seat washer (on compression stems) or damaged valve seat.

B. Water around/behind the handle (especially when on)

• Worn packing under the packing nut or a bad stem O-ring.

C. Spray or drip at the hose connection

• Flattened hose washer or damaged threads.

D. Water at/under the vacuum breaker cap (the anti-siphon device on many modern spigots)

• Brittle internal check/seal, debris, or a cracked vacuum breaker body.

E. Water from the wall/inside when you turn the faucet on

• Freeze damage or split pipe—common with frost-free sillcocks if a hose was left attached over winter. This usually requires replacement, not just a washer.

  
  

2) Determine your faucet type

Knowing the type makes how to fix a leaky outside water faucet much faster.

• Standard (non-frost-free) compression spigot: Short body; handle turns multiple turns to open. Uses a rubber washer sealing on a valve seat.

• Frost-free (anti-freeze) sillcock: Long body that passes through the wall; the actual shutoff is inside the house. Usually compression-style with a long stem. Often includes an anti-siphon vacuum breaker.

• Quarter-turn ball-valve spigot: Handle moves only 90°; uses internal ball with seats (no rubber seat washer).

• Inline anti-siphon/vacuum breaker: Many spigots have a cap labeled “anti-siphon.” Leaks here are treated separately.

If you’re unsure, look at the body length: a tube extending through the wall = frost-free. A compact body outside = standard.

3) Fixes by symptom and faucet type

A) Drip from the spout (standard or frost-free compression types)

Likely cause: worn seat washer or pitted valve seat.

Steps

1. Remove handle & packing nut. Pry off the index cap (if any), remove the handle screw, pull the handle. Use a wrench to loosen the packing nut right behind the handle.

2. Withdraw the stem. Turn the handle counter-clockwise until the stem backs out fully from the faucet body.

3. Replace the seat washer. At the stem tip, remove the small screw and swap the rubber washer (match size/shape). Lightly grease the new washer and stem threads with plumber’s grease (not petroleum).

4. Inspect the valve seat in the faucet body with a flashlight. If it’s grooved or pitted, remove with a seat wrench and install a new seat (wrap threads with PTFE tape; snug, don’t over-torque).

5. Reassemble. Insert stem, tighten packing nut snug (not crushing), reinstall handle.

6. Turn water on & test. If it still drips, repeat for the other washer on two-stem units (hot/cold), or inspect the seat again.

Tip: Most frost-free models have a long stem with the washer at the end. The repair is the same—just a longer stem.

B) Leak around the handle (packing/O-ring)

If you see water weeping around the stem or under the escutcheon:

Fast try: With the water on, turn the packing nut ⅛–¼ turn tighter. This compresses the packing and often stops the leak.

If still leaking:

1. Shut off water; remove handle.

2. Back off the packing nut and slide it forward.

3. Remove the old packing (graphite string) or O-ring from the stem.

4. Replace with new packing (wrap 2–3 turns) or install the correct O-ring.

5. Lightly grease, reassemble, and snug the packing nut. Test.

This is the most common “easy win” for how to fix a leaky garden hose faucet when the leak is at the handle.

C) Leak at the hose connection (spray at the threads)

Cause: worn hose washer or damaged threads.

Fix

1. Replace the hose’s rubber washer (inside the female end).

2. Inspect the spigot threads. If nicked, wrap PTFE tape clockwise (3–4 wraps).

3. Hand-tighten the hose; use pliers only a touch if needed—over-tightening ruins washers.

D) Leak from the vacuum breaker (anti-siphon cap)

Many outdoor faucets include an anti-siphon vacuum breaker to prevent backflow. If water sprays from under the cap:

Quick resets (often enough)

1. Unscrew the plastic cap (or remove small set screw), lift the check assembly.

2. Rinse debris; check the small rubber disc/gasket. Replace if brittle.

3. Reassemble and hand-tighten. Do not glue.

4. Test: a small drip while opening can be normal; continuous leakage means the internal seal is bad → replace the vacuum-breaker module (cheap) or the whole spigot if it’s integrated.

E) Water inside the wall / leak only when spigot is on (frost-free)

Likely cause: freeze crack in the long body tube—classic when a hose is left attached over winter.Fix: Replace the entire frost-free sillcock (see section 7). Check for interior water damage and mold; repair drywall if soaked.

4) Diagnose special cases

• Quarter-turn spigot won’t shut off completely: Mineral-worn ball seats. Many brands sell a seat kit; otherwise replace the spigot.

• Handle hard to turn / squeals: Mineral buildup on the stem threads/packing. Disassemble, descale with vinegar, re-grease, or replace stem.

• Water hammer (bang) when closing: Not a leak; install water-hammer arrestors near the line or cushion closing speed.

• Anti-siphon drips only during use: A few drops while opening is normal; persistent spray = service/replace the vacuum breaker.

Fixed outdoor faucet with no leaks

5) Parts matching tips (save a second trip)

• Bring the old stem or vacuum breaker to a plumbing counter; they’ll match brand/size.

• For washers, match diameter and shape (flat vs beveled).

• For seats, verify thread size; a seat wrench is a few dollars and worth it.

• Measure wall thickness and overall length if replacing a frost-free sillcock (common sizes: 4", 6", 8", 10", 12").

6) Reassembly & finishing

• Wrap male threads with PTFE tape clockwise; for brass-to-brass, a dab of compatible pipe dope plus tape seals nicely.

• Use plumber’s grease (silicone) on O-rings, stem threads, and washers.

• If there’s an exterior escutcheon, seal its top/sides to the wall with a thin bead of 100% silicone; leave the bottom open as a weep.

• Turn on water slowly, watch for leaks, then cycle the handle fully open/close to seat new parts.

7) When to replace the whole outdoor faucet (sillcock)

Replace instead of rebuild if:

• The body is cracked, heavily corroded, or won’t accept a new seat.

• It’s a frost-free model with a split tube.

• You want an upgrade (built-in vacuum breaker, quarter-turn ball valve).

Replacement overview (standard spigot)

1. Shut off and drain.

2. Unscrew the exterior spigot from the threaded fitting or remove inside connection (threaded, PEX crimp, or soldered).

3. Install the new spigot. For threaded connections, wrap PTFE tape and snug. For soldered types, consider a threaded or push-to-connect replacement to avoid torch work.

4. Support interior piping, restore water, test, and seal the escutcheon.

Replacement overview (frost-free sillcock)

1. Shut off and drain.

2. From inside, disconnect the line (threaded/PEX/soldered).

3. Pull the long sillcock out from the exterior.

4. Insert the new length-matched unit, sloping slightly downward to the outside so water drains.

5. Reconnect inside piping, restore water, test the vacuum breaker, and seal exterior trim.

Pro winter tip: Always remove the hose before freezing temps and open the spigot a crack to drain.

8) When to call a pro

• No accessible shutoff or you can’t stop the water.

• Evidence of leak inside the wall/ceiling.

• Soldering or major re-piping required.

• You’re unsure about anti-siphon/backflow code requirements.

• The stem is seized and you’re at risk of cracking the valve body.

DIY is great, but water damage isn’t.

9) Quick reference: Fixing a leaky outside water faucet

Symptom	Most likely cause	Primary fix
Drip from spout off	Worn seat washer / pitted seat	Replace washer; replace seat if scored
Water at handle/stem	Loose packing nut or bad packing/O-ring	Snug packing nut; replace packing/O-ring
Spray at hose	Bad hose washer / rough threads	Replace hose washer; PTFE tape on spigot
Drip at vacuum breaker cap	Debris/bad check seal	Clean/replace vacuum breaker module
Leak in wall when on	Split frost-free body (freeze)	Replace whole frost-free sillcock
Quarter-turn won’t shut	Worn ball seats	Install seat kit or replace spigot

Well-maintained garden with a functional outdoor faucet

10) Parts & materials checklist

• Seat washers (flat or beveled, correct size)

• Valve seat (if replaceable) + seat wrench

• Stem packing or O-rings

• Vacuum breaker repair kit (if applicable)

• Hose washers

• Replacement stem or entire spigot/sillcock (standard or frost-free, correct length)

• PTFE tape, compatible pipe dope, plumber’s grease, 100% silicone for trim seal

For drippy baths, this step-by-step on fixing a leaky bathtub faucet can save a weekend call-out.

Pro tips to prevent repeat leaks

• For two-stem styles, service both hot/cold if present (some wall-mounted bibs are single-mix, but many old ones are separate).

• After any repair, cycle the faucet fully to seat new parts.

• Keep a few hose washers in the garage—cheap and they solve half of “spray at the hose” complaints.

• Before winter, disconnect hoses, drain, and consider an insulated cover.

• Label the interior shutoff so future you (or a tenant) can find it fast.

Conclusion

Now you know how to fix a leaky outside water faucet—whether it’s a standard bib, a frost-free sillcock, or a quarter-turn spigot. The vast majority of leaks come down to a washer, packing/O-ring, vacuum-breaker seal, or (after freezes) a split body. With a few basic tools and the steps above, you can stop a leaky outdoor faucet, fix a dripping spigot, and keep water where it belongs—in the hose, not on your wall.