How to Get Rid of Groundhogs: A Complete Guide Homeowners

Groundhogs (also called woodchucks) can tunnel under sheds and decks, chew through vegetable beds, and leave ankle-twisting holes across a yard. The good news is you don’t need to panic—or poison anything—to fix it. This guide shows you how to get rid of groundhogs the right way: identify active burrows, evict animals safely, close tunnels so they don’t return, and harden your property with fencing and smart landscaping. We’ll also cover how to get rid of a groundhog fast when one animal is causing damage, how to get rid of groundhogs under house foundations or decks, and how to get rid of groundhogs in your yard long-term with a prevention plan. 🦫

Whether you searched how to get rid of groundhog, how to get rid of groundhogs in your yard, or you’re staring at a fresh mound by your foundation, you’ll find a practical, expert playbook below—written for a first-time homeowner who wants quick wins and lasting results.

A curious groundhog peeks out from the lush foliage, surrounded by a bed of mulch and fresh green leaves.

Groundhog Basics: What You’re Dealing With (and Why It Matters)

Groundhogs (Marmota monax) are burrowing rodents that prefer edges—fence lines, brushy borders, slopes, and the quiet space below decks, sheds, and porch steps. A single adult can excavate a sprawling den with multiple entrances, a nest chamber, and emergency exits. Those dens can undermine slabs, crack walkways, and create sinkholes that trap water.

Why simply chasing them off rarely works:

• Burrows are multi-room “homes.” If you scare a groundhog away once, it often returns via a secondary entrance unless you close the system and block access.

• They’re site faithful. Adults remember good den sites for years and will reuse them each season.

• Habitat draws them back. Dense cover, easy food (vegetable beds, clover lawns), and quiet crawl spaces invite re-occupation.

A quick, science-based overview of woodchuck behavior and control from a trusted extension service is here: Penn State Extension: Woodchucks. Penn State Extension

Signs You Have Groundhogs (Not Moles or Skunks)

• Burrow entrances 8–12 inches wide with a fan of fresh soil. Secondary “pop holes” may be cleaner and less obvious.

• Toilet areas (small latrine piles) near den mounds—unique among many backyard mammals.

• Plant damage: broad bites on leafy veggies and flowers; woody stems clipped at a 45° angle.

• Tracks: five toes on front feet, four on rear, but prints are often smudged in soft soil.

If you’re seeing long soil ridges across the lawn, that’s usually moles (tunnel “runs”), not groundhogs. Skunks and raccoons, meanwhile, flip turf squares and dig cone-shaped holes while foraging.

Safety & Legal Considerations (Read Before You Start)

• Check local regulations. Trapping, relocating, or lethally removing wildlife is regulated by state law; relocation is illegal in some states. Call your state wildlife agency or your county extension office to learn what’s allowed.

• Young in the den. From late spring into early summer, litters may be present. Evicting the adult without the kits can create odor problems and inhumane outcomes. Use one-way doors only when you’re confident no dependent young remain.

• No poisons. Toxicants for groundhogs are generally not registered for homeowners in many states, and indiscriminate baits can harm pets and non-target wildlife. As a rule of thumb, don’t use poison for groundhogs; extensions echo this point. See Missouri Extension’s clear note that no poisons are registered for woodchucks in their state: Managing Woodchuck Problems in Missouri. MU Extension

  
  

How to Get Rid of Groundhogs: The Proven Three-Phase Plan (Inspect → Evict → Exclude)

This is the exact sequence professionals follow. The order matters: find all entrances, get the animal(s) out, then close and fortify so the problem doesn’t bounce back.

Phase 1 — Inspect and Map the Burrow Network

• Walk the perimeter at dawn or late afternoon when groundhogs are active. Flag every hole you find with bright tape or garden stakes.

• Confirm activity by smoothing soil at the entrance and sprinkling a light layer of sand or flour. Fresh tracks or new spoil the next day = active.

• Look for structure risk: holes near shed skids, deck posts, concrete steps, or AC pads. Prioritize these first.

  
  

  

  A curious groundhog stands alert in the lush green grass, seemingly pondering the world beyond the fence.

Phase 2 — Evict Humanely (Pick One Method or Combine)

A) One-way door + “make it ugly” inside

• Install a rigid, swing-flap one-way door on the primary entrance (the one with the largest, freshest spoil). Secure it to heavy hardware cloth that covers the opening’s edges so the animal can exit but not re-enter.

• Inside the crawlspace or den area (if you can access it under a deck/shed), make conditions temporarily inhospitable: bright light during daytime, a portable radio (talk radio is plenty), and rags in cider vinegar to add odor. This is a standard humane harassment mix recommended for under-structure evictions: Humane Society: What to do about groundhogs. Humane World for Animals

  
  

B) Live-trap (where legal) + on-site release or legal disposition

• For a single animal doing damage, a box trap set right at the burrow entrance can be effective. Camouflage with soil and leaves; use sliced apples, broccoli, or cantaloupe as bait. Check traps at least twice daily. Follow your state’s rules on dispatch, release on-site, or transfer to licensed wildlife control.

  
  

C) Intensified activity + supervision

• Regular presence, a dog on leash patrols, and consistent daytime disturbance near the den can convince a groundhog to relocate—especially if you also reduce cover and food nearby.

  
  

Phase 3 — Exclude and Close (This Is What Prevents Comebacks)

The L-footer fence

• Groundhogs are strong diggers and decent climbers. The most reliable defense is a 3–4 ft wire fence with a buried L-shaped footer (hardware cloth or welded wire). Bury the footer 10–12 inches deep and bend it outward at a 90° angle to discourage tunneling under, and consider bending the top outward to discourage climbing. This fence spec is repeatedly recommended in wildlife-damage handbooks and extension guides. See the classic control specs here: UNL/USDA “Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage—Woodchucks”. pcwd.info

• For gardens, you can add a single low electric strand 4–5 inches off the ground, outside the fence, to stop climbing starts (where legal and safe). The same handbook notes this setup as a high-success addition. pcwd.info

  
  

Close inactive holes properly

• After you’re sure all animals are out (see the two-day test below), fill holes with crushed stone first for compaction, then cap with soil and tamp. Avoid pure soil fills—groundhogs can easily reopen them.

Two-day test for empty dens

• When the one-way door stops swinging for 48 hours and no fresh spoil appears at secondary holes (smooth them to check), you can remove the door and permanently close entrances.

How to Get Rid of Groundhogs Under House, Decks, and Sheds

Groundhogs love quiet, dry, covered spaces. Here’s the under-structure playbook so you can fix it once and be done.

1) Verify no dependent young. In late spring/early summer, wait until kits are mobile (you’ll see small heads at the entrance) before using one-way doors.

2) Install a skirt (rat-wall) around the structure. Wrap the perimeter with ½-inch hardware cloth at least 36 inches high. For permanence, add a buried L-footer 10–12 inches deep that extends outward 10–12 inches, then backfill and tamp.

3) Use a one-way door at the active hole. Let the animal exit; block all secondary openings with wire panels temporarily. When activity ceases, remove the door and close holes with stone + soil.

4) Maintain airflow and dryness. Add vent screens, trim vegetation back 12–18 inches, and keep firewood or stored lumber off the ground to reduce cover.

The Humane Society offers a short, practical page on fencing to stop burrowing animals with mesh sizes and placement tips—handy when you’re shopping materials: Fence out digging animals. Humane World for Animals

Garden & Yard Tactics: Protect Beds Without Turning Your Lawn Into a Fortress

Vegetable beds

• Enclose beds with 3–4 ft welded wire and a buried L-footer. Where legal, a low electric offset wire outside the fence (4–5 inches high and out) stops climbs before they start. Specs are outlined in wildlife-damage guides: Prevention & Control Handbook—Woodchucks. pcwd.info

• Row covers protect transplants until they’re established. Remove for pollination when crops flower.

Ornamental borders

• Reduce cover by limbing up shrubs and trimming dense groundcovers near fences and foundations.

Lawns

• Clover-heavy lawns are a magnet. Overseed with turf mixes that outcompete clover if groundhog pressure is constant, and don’t leave fallen fruit or unprotected compost.

Burrow “hot zones”

• Watch edges along sheds, retaining walls, and brush piles. If you find repeated digging, consider a short wire skirt along the base as a permanent fix.

What About Repellents?

Scent and taste repellents can sometimes push groundhogs to try another spot temporarily, but they rarely hold up through rain or when a burrow system is already established. Use them, if allowed, as short-term helpers while you complete exclusion—never as your only solution.

Trapping: When, How, and Why It’s Not Always the First Move

• When to trap: One animal is actively damaging a vegetable bed, and eviction + exclusion timing doesn’t work (e.g., it’s mid-season).

• How: A sturdy box trap placed flush with the active hole or along a travel path, baited with apples, broccoli, or greens. Camouflage lightly with soil and vegetation.

• Check laws: Confirm whether relocation is allowed; some states require on-site release or euthanasia by licensed professionals.

• Why not first: Trapping alone won’t fix the den site that attracted the animal; if you don’t follow with exclusion, a new groundhog may move in within weeks.

Extension agencies emphasize combining methods—fencing/exclusion, habitat changes, and targeted trapping—as part of an integrated program. See Missouri’s concise guidance on control options (including a note about no registered poisons for woodchucks in that state): MU Extension: Managing Woodchuck Problems. MU Extension

Timeline: A Two-Week Plan That Actually Works

Day 1—Map and Flag

• Walk the property; flag all holes; smooth spoil to detect fresh digging.

• Install sticky notes on a calendar to track daily activity.

Day 2—Harass and One-Way the Primary

• Add light/odor/sound harassment under the structure (if accessible) and mount a one-way door at the main hole.

• Block secondary openings with temporary wire panels.

Day 3—Inspect and Prep Exclusion

• Check the door for scuff marks (proof of exit). If it’s swinging daily, keep it installed.

• Purchase materials for the L-footer fence around the target area.

Days 4–6—Quiet Monitoring

• Reduce food attractants. Keep pets on leash near den areas to discourage re-entry.

• If the door hasn’t swung for 48 hours and no fresh spoil appears, proceed to closure.

Days 7–9—Close and Build

• Remove the one-way door and fill holes with stone + soil.

• Install the L-footer fence or skirt around the target structure.

Days 10–14—Quality Check

• Walk the edge daily for new starts. Address any fresh digging immediately with short wire panels, then extend the L-footer in that spot.

How to Get Rid of Groundhogs in Your Yard (Quick Reference)

• Find every entrance; don’t miss “pop holes.”

• Evict humanely: one-way door or legal live-trap.

• Seal the system: crushed stone + soil.

• Fence right: 3–4 ft welded wire, L-footer buried 10–12 inches and bent outward; consider a low electric offset where legal. Specs: UNL/USDA handbook excerpt. pcwd.info

• Remove attractants: dense cover, clover patches, fallen fruit; protect gardens.

• Verify legality for any trapping or lethal methods. Missouri’s guidance (as an example) underscores key rules and options: MU Extension. MU Extension

• Use humane eviction practices under structures: Humane Society guide. Humane World for Animals

Under-House Case Study (Real-World Example You Can Copy)

The situation

A groundhog tunneled under a 12′×16′ shed set on skids, with a main entrance on the downhill side and two pop holes near the corner posts.

The fix

• Day 1: Mapped holes; smoothed spoil; confirmed the main entrance.

• Day 2: Installed a one-way door framed in hardware cloth over the main opening; temporarily shielded pop holes with wire panels.

• Day 3–4: The door swung twice (fresh scuffs). No activity after Day 4.

• Day 5: Closed all holes with crushed stone + soil; installed a 36″ hardware cloth skirt with an L-footer 10–12″ deep and 12″ out.

The result

Zero re-openings after two weeks; no signs the following spring. The permanent skirt kept skunks and rabbits out as a bonus.

Habitat Tweaks That Make Your Property “Not Worth It” to Groundhogs

• Edge cleanup: Limb up shrubs; remove wood piles and tall weeds along fence lines.

• Smart planting: Use raised beds with internal wire lining; favor plants that tolerate occasional browsing near perimeters.

• Compost management: Enclose compost and keep lids secured.

• Mow strips: Keep a 3–5-foot low-cut strip around the yard’s perimeter to reduce cover near fences and walls.

Common Mistakes (So You Don’t Learn the Hard Way)

• Closing holes too early. If a groundhog is trapped inside, it will dig a new exit—often under your slab or steps.

• Fencing without a footer. They tunnel under simple fences in a day.

• Relying on repellents alone. Rain and time beat them; use repellents only while you finish exclusion.

• Relocating illegally. Many states prohibit relocation because it spreads disease and stresses animals. Always check rules first.

• Leaving dense cover. Brush piles and tall vegetation near structures invite re-occupation.

  
  

Two groundhogs share an affectionate moment on a lush green field.

Quick FAQ: How to Get Rid of a Groundhog When You’re Short on Time

What’s the fastest humane way to evict a single groundhog?Install a one-way door on the active hole, use light/odor inside a crawl or deck void to hurry the exit, and switch to permanent closure after 48 hours without activity. For a concise, humane overview, see the Humane Society’s guide. Humane World for Animals

Do I really need to bury fence wire?Yes. The buried L-footer is what stops tunneling; guidelines call for burying 10–12 inches and bending outward about 12 inches. Reference designs are in the long-standing wildlife-damage handbook here: UNL/USDA woodchuck chapter. pcwd.info

Are poisons or fumigants a good idea?Generally no for homeowners—safety, legal issues, and non-target risks. Missouri Extension notes no poisons are registered in their state; other states have similar restrictions: MU Extension. MU Extension

What if the burrow’s against my foundation?Prioritize a skirt fence with L-footer to protect the structure, use a one-way door to clear the burrow, fill with stone + soil, and monitor for a week.

Will groundhogs attack pets?They prefer to flee, but can defend burrow entrances. Keep dogs leashed near active dens until you’ve evicted and closed the system.

Advanced Notes (For People Who Want the “Why” Behind the Steps)

• Why the 48-hour rule? Groundhogs are active diurnally; two full days without door movement or fresh spoil is a reliable indicator the burrow is empty.

• Why stone before soil when closing? Crushed stone interlocks and deters re-digging, while soil alone is easy to push aside from underground.

• Why add a low electric offset to garden fences? It stops the initial climb; once animals learn the fence “bites,” they rarely test it again. Follow local electrical codes and safety practices.

• Why not rely on relocation? Animals often suffer from stress, parasites, or territorial fights in new sites—and many states prohibit it for disease control.

  
  

For deeper background on wildlife-damage methods and integrated strategies used by agencies and land-grant universities, explore the Prevention & Control of Wildlife Damage handbook archive: UNL Digital Commons. UNL Institutional Repository

Conclusion: How to Get Rid of Groundhogs—A Plan That Works and Lasts

You now have a complete homeowner’s plan for how to get rid of groundhogs without guesswork: map every entrance, use a one-way door or legal live-trap to empty the den, and then exclude permanently with a 3–4 ft fence and a buried L-footer. You’ve seen how to get rid of a groundhog quickly when one animal is causing fresh damage, how to get rid of groundhogs under house or under decks with skirts and one-way doors, and how to get rid of groundhogs in your yard long-term by removing cover, hardening gardens, and closing every hole with stone and soil. Do it once the right way, and you won’t be chasing the same groundhog next season. 🌱